Tuesday, December 10, 2019

Quality Escargot Suppliers

It is only from a few suppliers that you can be sure of getting the correct type of escargot (Helix Pomatia) and of the highest quality: Henri Maire, George Blanc, and Bourgogne Escargots.

Of these, Henri Marie is the only one readily available from North American retailers.

Henri Maire

From a Bon Appetit article:
"It is our great pleasure to introduce the Wild Burgundy Snails [Helix Pomatia Linne] of Henri Maire, exclusively imported from France. Previously available only to the most elite European restaurants, the Helix Pomatia Linne are the most sought-after escargots in the world. The long overdue arrival of this treasure in America is finally at hand.

At Potironne Company, we refer to this top variety as “the Kobe Beef of Snails” and “Land Lobsters” based on their incomparable texture. The snails of Potironne are still harvested by hand in the wild. Delivered live, hand-sorted by size, washed, and prepared using a cooking method perfected in 1938, ensures unmatched quality. Using 100% natural and organic ingredients and according to the strictest hygienic standards (HAACP Certified), the escargots are then conserved for sale."

From the Potrionne website:
"The preeminent purveyor in Burgundy, Henri Maire, has been satisfying the most discriminating palettes in France since 1938. In three-star Michelin-rated restaurants like Paris' Taillevent (#1 dining destination in the World, 2001 Zagat's survey), Chez Lasserre, or La Grande Cascade, and in nearly 400 of America’s top dining rooms, these snails grace the finest tables."

Imported into the U.S. by Potironne.
Buy online from ChefShop.com and iGourmet.com.


Maison Blanc (i.e., George Blanc)

From George Blanc, the renowned chef whose restaurant has held 3 Michelin stars since 1981!

From the BienManger.com. website:
CONTENTS: Snail meat (Helix Pomatia Linnaeus), water, salt, carrot, spices, herbs. Snail meat (Helix Pomatia) from various countries) Traces of gluten, fish, crustaceans, soya, eggs, milk, almonds and celery.

Available online in Europe from BienManger.com.


Bourgogne Escargots

From the BienManger.com website:
Bourgogne Escargots transforms snails of the Helix Pomatia Linné species (snails of Burgundy), in Dijon, in modern workshops. During all the stages, from the cooking to the packaging of the product, everything are mastered.
Flesh are cooked in a salted short-broth, then calibrated, counted, canned and sterilized.
CONTENTS: Burgundy snails chairs (mollusk) cooked in broth (Helix pomatia linné), water, salt spices.

Available online in Europe from BienManger.com.


I bought Eric Bur escargot from La Grande Épicerie de Paris though I haven't tried them yet.


Jacot Billey

Jacot Billey use Helix Pomatia supplied from Romania and Poland.

From Jacot Billey website:
A product of Excellence. The incomparable Burgundy Snail, Helix Pomatia.
Since 1935, the Maison Jacot Billey has been working on the authentic Burgundy Snail with the greatest respect and love for this noble product. Today, this species is protected in France and we therefore make it travel alive from Romania and Poland, cradles of the Helix Pomatia. If Mother Nature is not generous enough, we supplement our sizes with frozen flesh.
The Burgundy snail Helix Pomatia is a wild snail that needs Nature to flourish. Not to be confused with Helix Aspersa and Helix Aspersa Maxima, called Petit-Gris and Gros-Gris, which are excellent farmed snails.
Buy online from Meilleur de Chef


Viennese Snails

Unexpectedly, Austria is also a source of quality escargot. The Viennese company Gugumuck Weiner Schnecken sells a variety of preparations. They have Viennese Snails in Stock, Viennese Snails in Balsamic Onion, Viennese Snails Beuschel* Style, and Viennese Escargot Potato Goulash. (They also make their own Gemischter Satz.)

In stockBalsamic OnionBeuschel StylePotato Goulash

* - Beuschel is a classic uniquely Austrian type of ragout traditionally made from offal.


Snail Pâté with Parsley

This snail terrine with parsley is a typical Burgundian recipe, perfected by chef Georges Blanc of the famous Vonnas restaurant using medium Burgundy snails.
Chef's serving suggestion: serve this terrine as an entrée on slices of fresh, crusty bread.

Available from BienManger.
Peconices Escargot in New York state raise the Petit Gris or Little Grey Snail (Helix aspersa) variety commercially.

(All prices are in US dollars.)

Escargot Info

Types of Escargot

Buying the proper escargots is difficult. Most escargot sold and served in restaurants are an inferior type that is not intended for human consumption (though not unsafe - merely unpalatable). Typically they are swamp snails from far eastern countries like Indonesia or Thailand, although some indicate France as the country of origin.

The true escargot snail is a land dweller and has a sweet meadowy taste as opposed to the swampy taste that the inferior types have. Often the flavour is masked with heavy seasoning. Restaurant escargot are usually served Bourgogne style with garlic butter, but with an excessive amount of garlic to mask the unpleasant taste of the otherwise swampy tasting snails.

The two types of snails usually offered for consumption are the Helix and the Achatine. The two kinds of Helix snails offered — the Burgundy (Helix pomatia) and the Petit Gris (Helix aspersa) — are the true escargot snails that have been consumed for centuries. (A third type is discussed below in the "Buying Escargot" section.)

These are land dwellers that eat green vegetation. The other kind of snail is the Achatine which is a swamp dweller. Not surprisingly the taste of each is reflected in the environment in which it lives. The two can be distinguished by the size of the foot or, more properly, the "pedicule" in relation to the size of its body. As you can see in the picture below, the Achatine snail has a very large pedicule in relation to the size of its body.

So, look for the small pedicule of the Helix - as seen in the right diagram below:


Buying Escargot

When buying escargot, the labeling can help identify the type of snail to be sure you are getting the correct one.

POINTS TO NOTE:
1) If the escargot does not come from France, it is likely NOT the Helix (i.e., the good) type. Most are labelled merely as "escargot" or "snails". If the escargot are from France then French labeling laws require that the producer clearly indicate the kind of snail used. The label will indicate whether the escargot is Helix or Achatine. Price is usually a good indicator as well: Helix snails are typically at least twice the price of Achatine.

2) If the label says "Helix" then they may be good quality but you should do some research to see if they are really helix snails.

There are however two types of Helix sold in France: Helix pomatia and Helix lucorum. Helix lucorum is similar to Helix pomatia but is tougher. Helix lucorum is often imported into France from Turkey for sale there. So, the preferred type is Helix pomatia.

3) The tendency for canned snails seems to be toward larger and larger snails. That is why you typically now see only "very large" and "extra large". Unfortunately, smaller snails are more tender, and merely "large" let alone medium or small snails are hard to find.

Because these large snails are of inferior quality compared to the smaller, domestic snails, they are re-exported from France - these are the snails that typically are available in North America. But because they are still Helix snails, the label on a container would not make a distinction between these inferior snails and the Burgundy and Petis Gris type of Helix. Though larger and not as tender as the domestic Helix, these snails are still far superior to the Achatine.

So to sum up:
Buy escargot from France and make sure it is Helix, and particularly try to buy Helix pomatia if the label indicates. 

Resources:

Books
Escargots from your garden to your table. François Picart (Santa Rosa, CA: F.Picart Snails, 1978)
Snails from garden to table. Frances Herb, Coralie Castle and Carrie Domogalla (Calistoga, CA: Illumiation Press, 1990)
Les escargots: connaissance, élevage. H. Chevallier (Paris: Rustica, 1995)
l’escargot helix aspersa: biologie-élevage. J.-C. Bonnet, P. Aupinel, and J.-L. Vrillon (Versailles: INRA, 1990)  

Links
Escargot Passion - breeding and farming information.
Frescargot - breeding and farming information - videos.

Saturday, December 7, 2019

Escargot Recipes

ESCARGOT À LA BOURGUIGNONNE (The classic escargot recipe)
4 dozen snails
3 tsps minced parsley
1 cup butter, softened to room temperature
½ tsp salt
1 clove garlic, peeled and mashed
⅛ tsp of pepper
2 tbsps minced shallots or scallions
fresh white breadcrumbs
4 dozen snail shells (optional)



Escargot à la Bourguignonne is actually escargot cooked with beurre à la bourguignonne - Burgundy butter.
Drain snails and pat dry on paper towel. Preheat oven to 375ºF.
Mash garlic into a paste and combine with finely chopped shallots and parsley. Add salt and pepper and mix in butter. Place a small dab of the butter in the bottom of the shell, push a snail into the shell, and cover the snail with generous dab of the butter mixture. If using an escargot dish, put a small amount of snail butter in each section and push a snail into the butter. Top with a generous dab of butter.
For best results refrigerate at least one hour.
Sprinkle with bread crumbs and bake, uncovered, 10-12 minutes. When piping hot, serve along with some good French bread accompanied by a young red wine, such as a Beaujolais.
Adapted from Le Guide Culinaire by August Escoffier.

TRADITIONAL FRENCH RECIPE FOR ESCARGOTS
72 Escargots with cleaned shells
½ ounce shallots
1 lb unsalted, soft butter
0.4 ounce salt
1 oz parsley
0.3 ounce pepper
1 oz chervil
1 cup light chicken broth
1 oz garlic
Pre-heat oven to 400°F. Chop the herbs very fine, then mix with salt, pepper and butter. Put a small amount of chicken broth in the escargot shell. Insert an escargot into the shell, then complete filling the shell with soft butter mixture. Place prepared escargot in baking dish with shell opening up, bake for 10-15 minutes or until butter begins to bubble. Enjoy!

ESCARGOT À LA PROVENCALE
4 dozen snails without shells
¼ lb mushrooms, wiped clean and minced
1 medium size yellow onion
¼ cup dry red wine peeled and minced
2 cloves garlic, peeled and crushed
4 slices hot buttered toast,trimmed of crusts
2 tbsps olive oil
2 tbsps minced parsley
Drain snails and pat dry on paper toweling. Stir fry onion and garlic in oil in a skillet 8-10 minutes over moderate heat until golden. Add mushrooms and stir-fry 1-2 minutes longer. Add wine and simmer, uncovered, stirring occasionally, 5 minutes. Add snails and heat, uncovered, 5 minutes. Spoon over toast, sprinkle with parsley and serve.

ESCARGOT IN GARLIC BUTTER SAUCE
24-36 large snails
¼ teaspoon thyme
2 tbsps butter
Salt and pepper to taste
4 cloves of garlic minced
Italian or French bread
1 tsp fresh parsley
Melt butter in saucepan until it bubbles. Add garlic, saute slowly until light brown (do not burn garlic!) Add thyme and escargot, saute on medium heat for a few minutes. Add parsley and saute for 30 seconds. Add salt and pepper to taste, and serve with crusty Italian or French bread or heated pita bread, for dipping in the sauce.

ESCARGOT IN MUSHROOM CAPS
18 Snails
¼ tsp vegetable seasoning
1 Bay leaf
½ cup butter
1 cup White wine
3 tbsps finely chopped parsley
2 tbsps Chopped onion
2 tbsps minced green onions
4 Cloves garlic, crushed
¼ tsp Nutmeg
1 Dash allspice
18 mushroom caps
1 tsp Soy sauce
Rinse snails in cold water.
In a sauce pan, combine white wine, onion, garlic, allspice, soy sauce and vegetable seasoning. Add snails and cook over low heat 10 minutes. Remove and drain snails, reserving liquid. To this liquid add butter, parsley and green onions. Heat through and add nutmeg.
Place mushroom caps in baking dish, top each with a snail, and pour liquid over all; bake at 450°F for 7 minutes.
Serve immediately with sliced french bread.

From the International Chef

SNAIL CORN FRITTERS
8¾ ounces whole kernel corn
1 egg, lightly beaten
2 tsps baking powder
24 snails
milk as needed
1½ cup sifted flour
oil for deep frying
Sour cream
Drain liquid from can into measuring up and add milk to measure 1 cup. Combine drained corn with egg, stir in flour and baking powder until moistened adding additional flour if needed to make stiff batter.

Preheat oil to 375°F. Press mixture around dry snails and drop into hot oil. Do not overcrowd! Fry to golden brown, drain, and serve with sour cream.

SNAILS FETTUCINE
24 snails
4-6 large garlic cloves
½ cup chicken stock
Dry fettucine, al dente
2 tsps chopped chives
2 tbsps butter
½ tsp crumbled dry thyme
5-6 ounces cream of mushroom soup
2 tsps minced fresh parsley
Cut snails in half. Melt butter in sautee pan and add snails, garlic and thyme. Cook and stir over medium high heat. Add stock, bring to a gentle boil, lower heat and simmer for 8 minutes. Stir in soup, blending well. Reheat pasta and drain. Toss with snail mixture and top with grated Parmesan and herbs.

SNAILS IN JUMBO PASTA
3 garlic cloves, minced
½ cup white wine
16 snails
1 pinch ground cinnamon
1 tbsp fresh grated Romano cheese
Cherry tomatoes, halved
1 green onion, minced
2 tbsps virgin olive oil
1 cup ricotta cheese
2 tbsps fresh minced parsley
16 jumbo shells, al dente
Parsley or watercress sprigs
In a covered skillet, cook garlic and onion in wine and oil until tender. Add snails and cook over low heat 10 minutes, stirring often. Remove from heat. Combine cheeses and rest of the ingredients. Carefully stuff shells and push 1 snail into each shell. Pour sauce over, quickly reheat. Garnish with tomatoes and parsley.


BABLUCCI
75 Snails in shell
Marinara Sauce as follows:
2, 28 ounce cans crushed tomatoes
2 tbsps dried minced onion
6 garlic cloves, minced
¼ cup chopped fresh parsley
½ cup carrot juice or ½ cup grated carrot
1 ½ tsp dried basil
2 tsps oregano
2 tsps sugar
2 tsps salt
¼ tsp pepper
1 cup red wine
3 tbsps olive oil
Combine all the ingredients and add snails. Simmer for 1½ hours to thicken sauce and flavor snails.  

BREADED SNAILS SAUTEED

Snails
Minced garlic
Italian bread crumbs
Butter
Melt butter in sautee pan & brown garlic. Remove garlic from butter. Dredge snails in bread crumbs, sautee until slightly golden. Serve with hot salsa or warm scampi sauce.

CREAM OF STILTON & ONION SOUP WITH SNAILS
4 tbsps butter
1 pound thinly sliced onion
¾ lb thick-skinned potatoes
salt to taste
peeled and cubed
whipped cream
36 snails
2 large cloves garlic
1 quart low fat milk
4 ounces Stilton Cheese, crumbled
White pepper to taste
minced fresh parsley
In a large heavy skillet melt butter, when hot add snails; cook and stir 5 minutes. Remove snails, add onions & garlic. Cover and cook over medium low heat for 15 minutes or until onions are soft. Add potatoes, coat with butter and add milk. Cover (vented) and simmer for 30 minutes or until potatoes are very soft.

Mince snails and set aside. Puree soup, return to sauce pan and add snails and cheese. Stir over low heat until cheese is melted. Salt & pepper to taste. Serve in bowl, and garnish with whipped cream & sprinkle with parsley.

ESCARGOT EN CERCUEILS (SNAILS IN PUFF PASTRY SHELLS)
36 Snails; undrained
1 lb Puff pastry, preferably homemade
½ cup Chardonnay or dry white wine
1 egg yolk (blended with milk)
1 medium onion; minced
3 tbsps Milk (to blend with yolk)
1 Shallot; minced
¾ cup butter; well chilled*
2 Garlic cloves; minced
⅓ cup chopped toasted hazelnuts
Salt & freshly ground pepper
3 tbsps minced fresh parsley
Freshly grated nutmeg

*Note: Butter should be cut into 12 pieces.
Drain snail juices into small saucepan. Place snails in bowl. Add wine, onion, shallot, garlic, salt, pepper and nutmeg to juices and bring to boil. Pour marinade over snails. Let cool. Cover and refrigerate for 24 hours. Preheat oven to 425°F. Butter baking sheets. Roll dough out on lightly floured surface to thickness of ¼". Cut out 36 circles using 2-inch floured cutter. Arrange circles on prepared sheets. Using knife tip, trace lid on each circle ¾-inch from edge; do not cut through dough. Brush with glaze. Bake pastry until puffed and golden brown, about 10 minutes. Cool slightly on rack. Using sharp knife, cut out lids. Discard any soft dough inside shells. Reduce oven to 375°F. Strain marinade into large saucepan, pressing down on vegetables to extract all liquid. Boil until reduced to ½ cup. Remove pan from heat and whisk in 2 pieces of butter. Set pan over low heat and whisk in remaining butter 1 piece at a time. Mix in snails, hazelnuts and parsley. Adjust seasoning. Place 1 snail and some of the sauce inside each shell. Top with lid. Bake until heated through. Serve immediately.

Bon Appetit magazine, December 1984.